I mentally braced myself for the long flight and was pleasantly surprised when our seats turned out to be a higher class and extra comfy. I've never had such a pleasant surprise before! Also, I probably need to read more carefuly what exactly I am buying .. Anyhow, the first five hours flew by like one, then breakfast, and before we knew it, we were almost landing. Fun fact: we skipped a night thanks to the time difference. Those time zones, huh? But I suppose adjusting to a nine-hour difference will be easier this way.
I’m absolutely thrilled by Yelizovo International Airport! Officially the smallest airport I’ve ever seen. The arrival zone has just one baggage belt, a couple of bathrooms, and that's it. It looks like a former hangar for small planes.
At the airport, we were greeted by Oksana, our wonderful guide who promised to show us unfiltered Kamchatka. Of course, she forgot to mention that I would fall head over heels for the peninsula, but more on that later.
![Elizovo Airport](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1a05e5_fc1195acc039481ab801ef3309fb5e49~mv2.png/v1/crop/x_0,y_42,w_2757,h_3592/fill/w_338,h_441,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/Elizovo.png)
First, let me tell you how we found Oksana and why we chose her.
As soon as I decided to turn my dream of exploring the peninsula into a plan, the hunt for guides began. Nothing seemed right; no one seemed to fit. It’s crucial for me to explore new territories with locals who are passionately in love with their homeland, those whose eyes light up when they talk about it. That was Oksana. She was about the tenth person we contacted. By then, we were too tired to speak with anyone new, but when I saw her messages and the itinerary created based on our wishes, complete with honest comments about the places, all doubts vanished. She was the one! Not promising golden mountains, but with immense respect for nature, the history of the region, an endless zest for life, and a desire to show and tell as much as possible. Oksana didn’t try to sell her tour; she gave us the real deal. I couldn’t see any other guide to discover this Narnia with.
Meeting Oksana in person, you instantly fall for her warmth, care, and light. It’s soulful and serene to sit with her on a log at Khalaktyrsky Beach, listening to the not-so-quiet Pacific, "hunting" for bears, conquering Gorely, or just chatting over morning coffee (but this I will learn later). Hit me up if you need her contact details, I will gladly share.
Russia Starts Here
We fueled up on coffee and immediately set off to explore Petropavlovsk Kamchatsky - the capital of the region. I could never tell the region's history the way Oksana did. In fact, I probably couldn't tell it at all. But how fascinating it was to embark on this time-traveling adventure! A region far from the tsars we're used to, yet so familiar and so different at the same time.
Our first stop, and probably the most touristy one on the way from the airport, was the monument with bears, which proudly declares that Russia starts right here.
![Main monument in Kamchatka](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1a05e5_8be198ace6c64a67b7fe5cf9fa3990d8~mv2.jpg/v1/crop/x_0,y_251,w_1688,h_1066/fill/w_559,h_353,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/Facetune_07-07-2024-09-27-59_edited.jpg)
Petropavlovsk Kamchatsky
And then we went on to explore the city itself. The funny part was when we were driving along the waterfront, and this conversation happened between Oksana and me:
Me: "Hey, this is all very interesting, but just for context, where exactly in the city are we right now?" thinking we were still somewhere on the outskirts.
Oksana: "This is the heart of the city, the center!"
Me: "Oh."
You'd never guess this is the city center if you didn't know. Essentially, it’s the waterfront, a square where all the city events take place, the town hall, and a cultural center/theater. Quite unexpected!
So why do people go to Petropavlovsk Kamchatsky?
It is the launchpad for upcoming tours to the peninsula's attractions, as well as sea fishing and hunting trips. But the city itself is intriguing: volcanoes, hills, cliffs, and the sea—all of this can be seen right there. No need to go far for impressive sights. Basically, it's all about the beauty and power of nature, not about entertainment centers and restaurants.
![]() One of the eldest houses in Petropavlovsk. Built in 1836 and then rebuilt in 1905 | ![]() | ![]() |
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A Little Historical Background on the City (expend to read more, if curious)
Russian Kozaks discovered Kamchatka in the mid-17th century, officially annexing it to Russia in 1697. However, for the next fifty years, there wasn't a settlement like Petropavlovsk on the peninsula. The are was populated by natives, however on the sandy spit by the water, there were only the huts of the Itelmen chief Niaika. Permanent Russian settlement on the deserted shore of Avacha Bay began only in 1740, when Russian navigator Ivan Elagin selected a small bay for the winter anchorage of Vitus Bering's Second Kamchatka Expedition. Bering, while still in St. Petersburg, had noted the convenient location of Avacha Bay for launching his expedition to the western shores of unknown America. He sent Elagin ahead to verify the suitability of the spot. Elagin surveyed, measured, and concluded that there was no better anchorage for ships. He then built the first structures of what would become Petropavlovsk with a small team of soldiers. Bering himself gave the name to the place when he arrived in the bay, prepared by Elagin, on October 17, 1740, aboard the packet boats "St. Peter" and "St. Paul." He named the bay in honor of the saints after whom the ships were named, calling it the Harbor of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul. The expedition settlement soon became known as Petropavlovsk Harbor or Petropavlovsk Port. At that time, the harbor served no purpose other than Bering's expedition. The sailors spent the winter there, and on June 4, 1741, they set sail. A small garrison under the command of Ensign Peter Levashov remained to guard the harbor and the expedition's remaining property. A year later, the crew of the "St. Paul" returned, spending the winter in the harbor. In spring, they took some of their belongings and departed for Okhotsk, then the main Russian port in the Far East. It wasn’t until August that sailors from Bering’s crew came back to Petropavlovsk Harbor on the rebuilt packet boat "St. Peter." They had discovered the western coast of America but were shipwrecked on the return journey. Bering’s men spent the winter in Petropavlovsk Harbor again, and in the summer of 1743, they also left for Okhotsk, once more leaving a small garrison to guard the buildings and property on the shores of Avacha Bay. The area then drifted into near-total oblivion for years. During Catherine the Great’s reign (1762 - 1796), the state’s attention was focused on the southern and western borders of the empire. The eastern outskirts lived their own lives, about which little was known in St. Petersburg. Interest in the Far East only revived after England and France began sending naval expeditions into the Pacific Ocean. In April 1779, English ships from James Cook’s expedition entered Petropavlovsk Harbor, followed by French vessels from La Pérouse's expedition in August 1787. This alarmed Catherine’s cabinet, prompting measures to strengthen the distant maritime borders. The garrison in Petropavlovsk Harbor was immediately reinforced after the English expedition. Following the French visit, an artillery redoubt further fortified Petropavlovsk Port. In 1787, another English ship under the command of Peters entered Petropavlovsk, and in 1790, a Swedish vessel named "Mercury" attempted to commence trade in the Pacific. These developments prompted the Russian government to re-evaluate Kamchatka's position, leading to directives to bolster Petropavlovsk Port’s defenses. Kamchatka truly became a military outpost under Paul I. A regiment of 800 men was stationed on the peninsula. Unfortunately, the arrival of soldiers brought diseases that significantly reduced the native population. Travelers of that era strongly recommended minimizing the military presence due to the adverse impact on the local people. In July 1804, the frigate "Nadezhda," commanded by I. F. Kruzenshtern, arrived in the harbor. Among the crew was Georg Heinrich von Langsdorff, a doctor of medicine from Copenhagen, who had been granted the title of Russian State Councilor. Langsdorff's main contribution was establishing Petropavlovsk as the administrative capital of Kamchatka. His handwritten notes about his stay on the peninsula were presented to Emperor Alexander I, leading to the formation of a committee that implemented necessary reforms on the peninsula. On April 9, 1812, the emperor approved the decree "On the Transformation of the Military and Civil Administration in Kamchatka and the Improvement of the Condition of the Inhabitants and the Region." Life in Petropavlovsk began to change from that point, but for the next two centuries, it remained a small village. Kamchatka's story has its own special—heroic—pages. For example, it’s about the victory of Russian soldiers and local militias led by the military governor of Kamchatka, Vasily Stepanovich Zavoyko, over the Anglo-French landing in August 1854. At that time, six military ships under foreign flags entered Avacha Bay, began bombarding the city with cannons, and landed troops. Petropavlovsk defenders repelled the enemy several times, with bayonet charges and fierce combat. Eventually, the combined Anglo-French force wavered. Gathering the remnants of their troops and burying their disgraced commander, Admiral Price, who had shot himself out of shame, the enemy squadron departed. It was a brilliant victory for Russian arms in the tough Crimean War of 1853-1856.
Khalatyrsky Beach (aka Black Sand Beach)
This is what I wanted to see even more than the volcanoes, geysers, and bears! A beach with black volcanic sand. I love the mountains, but the ocean has always brought me peace and calm. It’s my mantra, my meditation.
The sand on this beach is black because it’s volcanic, made of titanium-magnetite with magnetic properties. This kind of sand is valuable raw material for titanium production. But in Kamchatka, titanium isn’t produced, and the sand isn’t sold to anyone. Here, black volcanic sand is used to cover city roads in winter to prevent cars from slipping. Moreover, this black volcanic beach is a unique, stunningly beautiful place where everyone can find something for themselves.
By now, the layer of black sand is about 20 meters deep, and the shoreline stretches for over 30 kilometers.
Khalaktyrsky Beach is arguably the best place to experience the vast Pacific Ocean. It’s only quiet in name because even in relatively calm weather, waves can reach heights of up to 3 meters. These conditions are ideal for surfing. Surfing in Kamchatka is no longer an exotic activity; anyone can try to catch their waves. You can rent a wetsuit and board right on the beach at the surf camp, and a professional instructor will teach you the basics of surfing. The beach is also worth visiting just to walk barefoot on always hot black sand, breathe in the salty air, listen to the sound of the waves, and meditate while gazing at the endless water expanses. The bravest souls can take a dip, although it's worth noting that the water doesn’t warm up above 16 degrees Celsius, though that hardly stops anyone.
For All Seafood Lovers!
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1a05e5_261ad9a1df844b3f8684f8596fb4bd9d~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/1a05e5_261ad9a1df844b3f8684f8596fb4bd9d~mv2.jpg)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1a05e5_1b9089f4e6474335a6d17d79be685da8~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/1a05e5_1b9089f4e6474335a6d17d79be685da8~mv2.jpg)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1a05e5_691d93d9eb6845aca7ad9a081a55ea98~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/1a05e5_691d93d9eb6845aca7ad9a081a55ea98~mv2.jpg)
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Oksana added welcome lunch to our program right on the beach! It was part of our itinerary, but honestly, I didn’t expect it to be THAT delicious and I doubt I've ever had so much of a sea food at once! I could have used a tray to carry my stomach back to the tour base.
Kamchatka's seafood is famous throughout Russia and beyond. Just look at what we tasted: oysters, sea urchin roe, the most tender sockeye salmon in a creamy sauce with vegetables, red fish, caviar, and amazing cottage cheese balls with grapes, among other things. Although it was definitely a feast for the stomach, the best part was the dessert — a mousse with local berries. Just thinking about it makes my mouth water!
After this amazing feast, we headed to our holiday base, which I’ll definitely tell you more about later. For now, I'll just leave you with a few more atmospheric photos of the black beach and crash back seat of our blue FJ.