Starting 2025 Right:
A Road Trip to Karelia. Day 1
What’s the best way to kick off a brand-new year? For me, it was a road trip with family, a car packed with mom’s sandwiches (a must for any Russian journey), and a trunk full of warm clothes, heading straight into the winter wonderland of Karelia.
Our original plan was a bit more ambitious — Murmansk and Teriberka, all the way to the Arctic shores, chasing the northern lights and hoping to spot my beloved humpback whales. But once we mapped out the logistics, reality hit: 4,000 kilometers (round trip!) wasn’t exactly a casual drive if we wanted to actually enjoy the journey and not just spend it glued to the road. So, a pivot was in order, and we decided to go halfway north instead.
Karelia turned out to be the perfect destination —unexpectedly magical and absolutely worthy of more exploration. While it wasn’t always on my radar, it’s now firmly planted on my list of places to return to.
Pristine lakes, snow-dusted forests, cozy small town vibes, buckthorn tea and Christmas spirit. Sadly, we couldn’t see everything we’d hoped for (because, you know, Russia isn’t exactly tiny), but that just means we’ve got the perfect excuse to come back.
General Information
The Republic of Karelia is a unique region of Russia concerning in its nature, culture and history. It has the longest border with the European Union (in the west, Karelia borders on Finland), in the North-East it is washed by the White Sea.
It spans an impressive 180,520 km², a size comparable to Greece or Bulgaria, ranking 18th among Russian regions. The capital city, Petrozavodsk, was established by Peter the Great in 1703 and is home to much of the region’s historical and cultural heritage.
Republic of Karelia on the Map
Nature’s Masterpiece
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25% of its territory is covered by water, boasting around 60,000 lakes (including Europe’s largest: Ladoga and Onega) and 27,000 rivers. This unparalleled ratio of land to water creates breathtaking landscapes and a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts like us.
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The region’s pristine coniferous forests, rugged rocks, and crystal-clear waters define its ecological charm.
Seasonal Wonders
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Summer: Think white nights, berry picking, fishing, and exhilarating river rafting adventures.
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Winter: Karelia transforms into a snowy wonderland, perfect for dog sledding, snowmobiling, skiing, and reveling in its serene, snowy expanses.
Cultural Tapestry
While Russian is the official language, Karelian, Finnish, and Vepsian languages enjoy state support, reflecting the region’s deep-rooted multicultural heritage.
Industry and Economy
Karelia’s economy thrives on its natural resources, with industries such as: mining, woodworking, paper production, metallurgy, mechanical engineering and tourism.
We finally rolled into Petrozavodsk late in the evening on January 2nd, tired but excited.
By then, the only thing on our minds was food and, honestly, the couch. The idea of venturing out to hunt down a restaurant? Absolutely not. So, in true road-trip survival mode, we ordered two pizzas (because why stop at one?) and poured ourselves just a glass—or maybe three—of white wine.
There we were, unwinding with warm pizza slices in hand, chatting away about what the next day in Karelia would bring. It wasn’t glamorous, but it was perfect. Sometimes, the best travel memories start with simplicity, a comfy couch, and carbs.
Let's start the day!
The mission for Day 1 was simple: start early, beat the tourist buses. If you’ve ever seen those enormous tour groups, you’ll understand why this is my personal nightmare. Luckily, my parents are early birds. Well... except when you completely forget it’s winter, and the sun doesn’t show up until 10 am. Yep, before that, it’s basically night.
Getting ready in the pitch-black morning was a strange but nostalgic feeling. It took me back to my childhood in Siberia, where winter mornings meant walking to school in darkness. Honestly, it was a weird mix of cozy and eerie—like stepping into a time machine with frosty windows.
8 am. The Sun isn't even close to be up yet
Anyway, by the time we were geared up we headed to our first stop: the patrimony of Karelian Father Frost (or as some may call him, Santa Claus). It’s a cozy 30-minute drive from Petrozavodsk, perfect for easing into the day.
☕️ Oh, and here’s a tip for my fellow road-trippers: just as you leave Petrozavodsk, there’s this adorable little bakery, called Bekker, you must stop at. Perfect for breakfast on the go! They’ve got decent coffee, warm pastries, jars of homemade jams, and locally blended teas. Prices are friendly, and honestly, these make for excellent souvenirs too. Pro tip: grab an extra jar of jam for yourself—you’ll thank me later.
Talvi Ukko
Home to Russia’s largest sled dog kennel! Here, you can meet the famous Alaskan and Siberian huskies and even spot an Alaskan malamute. Feel the rush as you zip through the snowy trails on a dog sled or take a cozy ride in a reindeer sleigh. There’s also a chance to explore the unique heritage of the Sámi people and wander around a reindeer farm.
❄️ Tip: If you’re traveling without kids, skip the visit to the Karelian Father Frost's estate. The ticket office might promise it’s a fun experience for adults too, but in reality, it’s not worth your time. However, if you’ve got little ones in tow, it’s a magical adventure they’ll absolutely love!
Riding with huskies is such an incredible experience!
These dogs are bursting with energy, eager to hit the trail and do what they love. I’ve always had a soft spot for animals, and it’s so important to me that they aren’t exploited or treated poorly. Their well-being and care should always come first. But watching these huskies excitedly jump into their harnesses, tails wagging, and impatiently waiting for the go-ahead — it’s truly something special and heartwarming to witness.
After the huskies, it was time to meet the reindeers!
We hopped onto a little sled and glided through a breathtakingly dense coniferous forest. Picture this: towering trees draped in fluffy snow, the air crisp and still, and the only sound is the soft crunch of the sled moving through the trail. It felt like stepping straight into a Christmas fairytale. Truly magical!
The reindeers are the pride and joy of Talvi Ukko, and visiting their farm is an absolute treat. These beautiful creatures seem almost mystical up close. You can even feed them yagel — a type of lichen that makes up their main diet.
Yagel is often called "reindeer moss" for this very reason.
Among the northern people, the reindeer is considered a sacred animal. In ancient times, these majestic creatures were essential for survival, providing transport, milk, meat, and warm hides for clothing and shelter. While times have changed, reindeer are now bred on farms both to increase their population — since some species are endangered—and to honor the traditions of their ancestors. Reindeer sleigh rides also help keep the animals active and engaged.
Here are some fascinating facts about Karelia’s reindeer:
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Unlike most deer species, both male and female reindeer grow antlers. Their growth begins in April, but there’s a seasonal twist — males shed theirs in December, while females keep theirs longer, often until after giving birth.
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As winter approaches, reindeer grow thick, dense fur to withstand freezing temperatures. Each hair is hollow, trapping air inside to retain heat. This is why clothing made from reindeer hides is highly valued among indigenous northern communities — It’s one of the warmest materials out there.
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Chameleon eyes. A reindeer’s eye color actually changes with the seasons! In summer, their eyes are a golden brown, but in winter, they turn deep blue. This adaptation helps them see better in low light and navigate the long polar nights. Plus, they can detect ultraviolet light, giving them a unique advantage in snowy landscapes.
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Reindeer hooves adapt to the changing terrain. In summer, they develop soft, cushioned pads for traction on wet ground. But in winter, these pads shrink, exposing the hard edges of the hooves—perfect for digging through snow to find yagel and for gripping icy surfaces.
Reindeer are truly built for the Arctic, making them one of nature’s most remarkable winter survivors!
And finally, the highlight of Talvi Ukko — the husky kennel itself! I think I managed to pet every single one of them. These fluffy, energetic, and incredibly friendly dogs just melt hearts. There’s something so peaceful and pure in their eyes, a kind of quiet wisdom that humans often lack.
But as much as I loved being around them, I couldn’t help feeling sad seeing them chained. Wouldn't it be better to let them roam freely, even in a fenced area? Seeing any animal restrained always breaks my heart.
Onega Lake Corniche
We spent quite a bit of time at Talvi Ukko, and since winter days in Karelia are short (the sun clocks out early, no overtime), we decided to head back to Petrozavodsk and take a walk along the Onega Lake corniche — the city’s pride and its Instagram-worthy spot.
The corniche officially opened back in 1994, and a special 500-meter section, designed in a charming 19th-century style, was added in 2003 to celebrate Petrozavodsk’s 300th anniversary. Now, this 1.5-kilometer stretch of Karelian granite is the perfect place for a scenic strolls, romantic dates and spontaneous photoshoots.
Installation "Fishermen" by Raphael Consuegra
Right in the beginning of the corniche we found ourself “caught” in the net—quite literally — of the elegant “Fishermen” installation. This sculpture started the tradition of placing unique artworks along the Onega embankment, turning it into an open-air museum and one of Petrozavodsk’s signature attractions.
It is more than just a pretty walkway — it’s a cultural hub. Dotted along its length are sculptures and monuments gifted by Petrozavodsk’s twin cities, each crafted in local workshops with direct input from the original artists. Some are straightforward, while others leave us thinking. Take the “Fishermen” sculpture by American artist Raphael Consuegra—at first glance, it’s just two abstract figures casting a net, made of thin metal rods. But dig into the history, and you’ll discover it symbolizes the friendship and partnership between Petrozavodsk and Duluth city in Minnesota.
The further we walked along Lake Onega, the more of these artistic gifts we've discovered — each with its own story, making the stroll feel like a mini treasure hunt.
The corniche isn’t just about art — it’s also lined with outdoor fitness equipment, free for anyone to use. A very modern-day thingy to Russia’s growing love for active lifestyles!
Dinner at Joki Restaurant
And we wrapped up the day with dinner at the very cozy Joki restaurant, specializing in northern cuisine. The focus is exclusively on the cuisine of northern peoples; there are almost no traditional Russian dishes, primarily northern and Scandinavian fare. But that’s what makes it interesting, as exploring new regions of vast Russia, one of the main objectives is also to get acquainted with the cuisine to get closer to understanding the culture.
Website: https://joki10.ru/
Phone: +7 8142 50 50 17
Location: Ulitsa Fedosovoy, 30, Petrozavodsk, Republic of Karelia, Russia, 185035
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And now, lets see what adventures are waiting for us tomorrow :)
