Guess what day it is today?
Today we finally made it to the Dachnye Hot Springs!
But I can't just talk about the springs! There was so much more to see along the way. The day kicked off with two mugs of latte and some traditional Russian cottage cheese pancakes with sour cream and jam.
Now, that’s already a promising start for a beautiful day ahead!
Here’s a tip: If you’re in Kamchatka and a guide promises to show you geysers, don’t be too quick to believe it! What you’ll likely end up seeing are hot springs. To lay eyes on those legendary geysers, you’ll need to shell out some cash for a helicopter tour. If you’re game for that kind of thrill, I suggest booking through Vityaz, the only licensed company on the entire peninsula. The 2024 price tag? 70,000 rubles per seat (AED 2,875 / EUR 710).
Vilyuchinsky Pass
Our journey took us through the Vilyuchinsky Pass — a place that, on a clear day, reveals absolutely breathtaking views!
About 50 kilometers southwest of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky rises the stunning cone of the Vilyuchinsky Volcano. This volcano is famous not only for its beauty but also for the Vilyuchinsky Pass, the second-highest on the Kamchatka Peninsula. Its peak reaches about a thousand meters above sea level.
<- Vilyuchinsky Pass.
Though the Vilyuchinsky Volcano (pictured below) is considered extinct, having last erupted more than seven thousand years ago, you can still spot steam and gas vents near its summit. However, there's no talk of any impending eruption. An accessible road makes the climb and descent convenient and relatively quick—just beware of the twisting turns that might make your ears pop as you ascend.
At the pass, in addition to the stunning views, we were greeted by totemic figures that the indigenous people of Kamchatka have worshipped for centuries. These are the Gamuls — spirits of Kamchatka and guardians of the pass.
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One holds a whale, symbolizing abundance and prosperity.
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Another smokes a pipe, with its smoke representing the vapors over Vilyuchinsky Volcano,
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while the third holds a drum, a traditional musical instrument of Kamchatka’s native peoples.
According to beliefs, Gamuls live in volcanoes, which serve as their massive homes.
The view from the pass is breathtaking. On a clear day, you can see nine volcanoes. The famous Mutnovsky and Gorely volcanoes offer a grand spectacle, with Vilyuchinsky visible to the east. Below, you can gaze over the river valleys. Even for this alone, the pass is worth a visit!
Why is Mutnovskaya GeoPP must visit?
Simply because it is absolutely stunning! I'd call it my personal mini Switzerland.
It is the largest geothermal power plant in Russia, located at an altitude of about 800 meters above sea level.
The station operates as a geothermal power plant that directly uses steam. It has an installed capacity of 50 MW. The steam-water mixture is piped directly from wells to the station. At the plant site, the steam-water mixture is separated in separators (with an average composition of 26% steam and 74% water). The steam is then directed to turbines, while the hot water (known as the separated water) is reinjected back into the underground layers through reinjection wells. The generated electricity is fed into the power grid through a 220 kV gas-insulated switchgear (GIS) and transmitted via the single-circuit 220 kV Mutnovskaya GeoPP - Avacha Substation power line.
Interesting Facts About the Mutnovskaya GeoPP
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It was built & operates under harsh climatic conditions at an altitude of 780 m above sea level. At the foot of the volcano, wind speeds can reach up to 50 m/s, and the weather changes several times a day. These extreme conditions often lead to emergency situations at the station.
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The nearest settlements are 60 km away.
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The station has no analogs in Russia and is considered one of the most modern geothermal power plants in the world. Some of the equipment was specially developed for the local conditions and is regarded as Russian know-how.
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The cost of electricity production at Mutnovskaya GeoPP is about 3.66 rubles per kWh. For comparison, diesel power plants in isolated areas produce electricity at a cost of 60 rubles per kWh.
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The high level of automation allows the equipment to be operated by a minimal number of personnel. The control center provides round-the-clock monitoring of instruments that accurately measure the quantity and quality of water, steam, and energy output.
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The staff works on a rotational basis, with each shift lasting 15 days. The road to the station passes through the Mutnovsky Pass, which can be snow-covered even in July, occasionally causing delays of a couple of days. A comfortable dormitory has been built for the workers, just a 20-minute walk from the station. It includes a lounge, gym, library, sauna, and swimming pool.
What Makes Mutnovskaya GeoPP Superior to Its International Counterparts?
The geothermal power plant in Kamchatka outshines its international competitors in several key areas:
Environmental Safety: The plant ensures minimal environmental impact by preventing direct contact between geothermal fluids and the surrounding environment. A significant advantage is the reinjection of separated water deep underground.
Equipment Protection: The plant uses advanced technology, specifically film-forming amine additives, to protect equipment from corrosion and salt deposition.
Modular Construction: The block-modular construction principle significantly reduced the time needed to bring the station online.
Dachnye Hot Springs
Just past the Mutnovskaya station, a charming surprise awaits about a 10-minute hike up and down — a gem known as the Dachnye Hot Springs. Perched at 1,000 meters above sea level, this area is exposed, windy, and damp. The challenging climate has led to the development of a unique micro-ecosystem, where all living things have adapted to the harsh conditions.
Tip: Some guides might sell hike to the Springs, calling it the "Little Valley of Geysers." But what you'll find instead is a fumarole field — a landscape dotted with cracks and vents through which hot gas escapes under pressure from the earth. It's easy to mistake these for geysers, but don't be fooled.
The fumarole field is vast, with hundreds of fumaroles, several mud pots, and gas eruptions that might vaguely resemble geysers. The springs are tucked into a ravine with steep walls. On the left side of the slope, there are dozens of steam vents and mud pots, but the real showstopper is on the right side, where a large, boiling cauldron steals the spotlight. This most impressive part of the field is known as the "Active" area.
The water temperature here can reach up to 95°C, and its release is often accompanied by sound effects—loud whistles and hissing. The eruptions themselves aren't particularly tall; the smallest ones barely reach a few centimeters, while the biggest might stretch to about a meter.
There's a noticeable smell of sulfur in the air, and the ground near the steam vents is mostly swampy. The water is a mix of sulfate-calcium bicarbonate-sodium with low mineralization. The gas streams contain a cocktail of various chemical elements, including copper, zinc, radon, manganese, and arsenic. The Bear Group on the northern side has the highest concentration of radon.
Tip: At the very start of the thermal springs, some guides might suggest you slather yourself in mud, claiming it's beneficial. Before you dive in, take a closer look at the composition, and notice how the guides themselves aren’t in a rush to get covered in this "healthy" mud. It can actually be quite harmful for your skin. We had a good laugh with Oksana, who gave us a heads-up, and sure enough, we spotted other groups with mud-smeared faces and hands.
Another 15 minutes hike & I got to see absolutely breathtaking views! No comments needed here...
Just when I thought the day couldn’t possibly surprise me any more — or that we’d already seen the most breathtaking spot — Oksana casually announces it’s time for a short drive to the next hiking point. At that moment, all I could think was, “Please tell me she’s joking.” She wasn't.. We built the itinerary together and I more than agreed on this adventure but the idea of more ups and downs had me exhausted before I even laced up my boots.
To be honest, the hike to the waterfall was hands-down the toughest of the day. On the way back, I genuinely thought I might just collapse in the middle of the trail and make Sergey and Oksana carry me back to the jeep like a sack of potatoes.
But don’t get me wrong — I wouldn’t change a thing. The sheer power and majesty of the waterfall made every step worth it. It was a humbling reminder of just how incredible our world is. That said, the tiredness hit me like a ton of bricks… and I couldn’t help but laugh at myself for it!
