Starting 2025 Right:
A Road Trip to Karelia. Day 2
A New Day in Karelia!
Today, we let ourselves sleep in a little — because, well, winter days here take their sweet time to start. The sun doesn’t bother showing up until late morning, so why should we?
First things first, we made a small detour back to Bekker coffee for a much-needed caffeine fix (a good habit is worth repeating). Fueled up and ready to go, we hit the road for the day’s adventure.
Karelia is often called “the land of a thousand lakes.” Sounds poetic, right? But it’s not just for show — lakes truly define this region’s character. However, today, we weren’t chasing lakes. We had our sights set on a single river — Suna.
Stretching 272 km, Suna River starts its journey from Lake Kivijärvi, meanders through several other lakes, and eventually flows into the vast Onega Lake. This river is home to one of the most famous waterfalls in Karelia — Kivach.
And that’s exactly where we were headed.
Waterfall Kivach
Kivach is what’s known as a flatland waterfall — which means it’s not the tallest, but it sure is mighty. It’s located 27 km from the mouth of the Suna River and drops 10.7 meters down, splitting into two streams. The larger one tumbles dramatically over four rock ledges, while the smaller one takes the express route—plunging straight down at a sharp angle.
But no great natural wonder is complete without a legend, and Kivach has one of its own.
Once upon a time, there were two sister rivers — Shuya and Suna. They were inseparable, always flowing side by side. But one day, Suna got tired and decided to take a nap, letting Shuya rush ahead. When Suna finally woke up, she realized her sister had left her behind, racing far ahead into the distance. Heartbroken, Suna took off after her, smashing through ancient rocks in her desperate chase.
And that’s how Kivach Waterfall was born—formed in the wake of her wild, unstoppable pursuit. Indeed, nature with a little bit of drama—just how we like it.
It’s worth mentioning that Kivach isn’t quite as wild as it used to be. Back in the day, this waterfall was a true force of nature, but in 1936,
during the Soviet era — when taming nature was all the rage — a dam was built near the village of Girvas. This redirected much of the Suna River’s flow to a small hydroelectric power station.
As a result, the once-mighty torrent has mellowed out quite a bit. The volume of water cascading over Kivach today is just a fraction of what it was a couple of centuries ago. Still, even in its calmer state, the waterfall remains one of Karelia’s most famous natural wonders!
The Mystery Behind the Name “Kivach”
Like any good natural wonder, Kivach comes with a bit of mystery — at least when it comes to its name. Linguists who study toponymy have debated its origins for years.
One of the earliest theories traces “Kivach” back to the common root kivi in Finnish, Karelian, and Vepsian, meaning “"stone”. Makes sense, considering Karelia is practically made of rock. This idea was backed by the Russian philologist Academician Yakov Grot, who referenced Gavrila Derzhavin’s travel notes. Derzhavin mentioned that the Shuya and Suna Rivers were unnavigable due to “two Kivaches” (likely referring to large rapids or waterfalls).
But there’s another theory. Karelian local historian N. Shaizhin suggested the name comes from kiwas — meaning “snowy mountain”. Given how the white torrents of Kivach cascade against the dark green forest, it’s easy to see the resemblance to a snowdrift. Poetic? Absolutely. Convincing? Not so much, according to most scholars like Mr. Kert and Mr. Mamontov.
How to get to Kivach Waterfall?
Kivach Waterfall is part of the Kivach Nature Reserve, a protected area covering 110 square kilometers. Over 85% of the reserve is dense, untouched forest, with some trees that have been standing tall for over 440 years! Meanwhile, lakes and rivers — including the Suna River, home to the famous waterfall—take up about 10% of the landscape.
If you’re planning a trip, here’s how far Kivach is from major towns:
📍 Petrozavodsk – 70 km
📍 Kondopoga – 20 km
There are no direct public transport routes to the waterfall, so if you choose this way, be prepared for some walking.
By Car
From Petrozavodsk take the R-21 “Kola” (rus: Кола) / M-18 highway towards Murmansk >> Drive through Yanishpole (rus: Янишполе) to Sopokha village (rus: Сопоха) >> Look for a sign for Kivach and follow the road.
Once you enter reserve area, remember:
• Speed is limited to 50 km/h.
• Stopping outside designated areas is not allowed.
• Parking costs ~70 RUB (as of Jan 2025: AED 2.66 / USD 0.77 / EUR 0.70), depending on the season.
Dad
By Public Transport
Take a marshrutka (minibus) from Petrozavodsk to Sopokha >> Ask the driver to stop at the turn to Kivach >> Walk 9 km to the waterfall, or try hitchhiking but I would not recommended to do so in winter.
Taxi option:
• As per Yandex Taxi rates, a one-way trip from Petrozavodsk costs ~1500 RUB (as of Jan 2025: AED 57.00 / USD 15.50 / EUR 15.00).
• A guided tour is often cheaper than a round-trip taxi and sometimes includes additional stops & meals.
Opening Hours
Access to the tourist zone follows seasonal schedules:
Summer 08:00 - 21:00
May, September 08:00 - 19:00
March - April 09:00 - 17:00
Winter 10:00 - 17:00
Nature Museum Hours: Similar but opens one hour later in summer (09:00).
Entrance Fees (as of Feb 2025)
Entrance Ticket: 200 ₽ (as of Jan 2025: AED 8.00 / USD 2.06 / EUR 2.00)
Free entry for:
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Children under 7
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People with disabilities (I & II groups) + 1 companion
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War veterans & Heroes of Russia/USSR
50% Discount for:
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Pensioners
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Large families (3+ kids under 16)
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Students & schoolchildren
Mount Sampo
Our next stop is the legendary Mount Sampo.
Just as we arrived, tickets in hand, the universe decided to put on a show. Out of nowhere, fat, fluffy snowflakes started swirling down, covering everything in a soft white blanket. It felt like someone up there had flipped a switch, turning an already stunning place into something straight out of a winter fairy tale. A real Christmas miracle, right on cue.
Tucked away among ancient pine forests and icy lakes, Mount Sampo is one of Karelia’s mystical power spots, wrapped in legends and folklore. It’s a place where visitors soak in the endless northern beauty, make wishes, seek good fortune, and dive into the epic world of the Kalevala.
Standing at just 40 meters tall, it’s an easy climb—even for beginners. A well-maintained wooden path with railings leads straight to the top, where a scenic viewpoint awaits. Despite its modest height, Mount Sampo belongs to a unique geological formation called selgä (from Finnish Selkä)—low rocky ridges shaped by glaciers during the last Ice Age, over 10,000 years ago. Some stretch up to 3 km long, with peaks reaching 50 meters, formed from loose sediments and crystalline rocks.
The Story Behind the Name
Mount Sampo isn’t just about stunning views and crisp northern air—it’s a place where history, folklore, and cinema intertwine. As you make your way up the wooden trail, you might notice familiar figures from Kalevala, the legendary Finnish-Karelian epic. And that’s no coincidence.
Two in one: ticketing office & a coffee shop
No one really can say what this mountain was called before 1959. The slopes of Sampo became a movie set for the Finnish-Soviet fantasy film “Sampo”, based on Elias Lönnrot’s poetic masterpiece. The film brought to life the mythical stories of the Kalevala, and ever since, the mountain has carried the name of the magical mill that, according to legend, could create endless riches and prosperity.
But even before the cameras rolled, locals believed Mount Sampo was a place of power. The energy here is undeniable. Some say that if you climb to the top with a wish in your heart, it just might come true—as long as you tie a small piece of your clothing to a pine branch along the way. A little offering for the spirits of the mountain, and who knows? Maybe your dream will become reality.
The Legends of Kalevala
According to the Kalevala epic, Sampo was a magical mill, forged by the divine blacksmith Ilmarinen for Louhi, the sorceress of the shadowy land of Pohjola. In return, he was promised her daughter’s hand in marriage.
This enchanted mill, with a lid reflecting the glow of the stars, worked ceaselessly, grinding out whatever its owner desired — grain, gold, salt. But once Sampo was created, the cunning Louhi hid it deep within the mountains, where its roots spread into the earth. A grand feast was held in Pohjola to celebrate its power.
Yet, Louhi deceived Ilmarinen — she never gave him her daughter. Enraged, the blacksmith kidnapped the girl, but after a bitter quarrel, transformed her into a bird.
Years later, three heroes — Lemminkäinen, Ilmarinen, and Väinämöinen — set out on a daring mission to steal Sampo and bring it back to Kalevala. They succeeded, but as they fled across the sea, Louhi pursued them. In the battle that followed, the precious mill was shattered and fell into the depths.
They say the ocean’s riches come from Sampo’s lost fragments, scattered across the seafloor. But not all was lost — Väinämöinen, the wise bard and sage, managed to salvage a few pieces. He buried them beneath Mount Sampo, blessing Karelia with eternal prosperity.
Entrance Fees (as of Feb 2025)
Entrance Ticket
250 ₽ (AED 9.50 / USD 2.60 / EUR 2.50)
Discounted Ticket
150 ₽ (AED 5.70 / USD 1.60 / EUR 1.50)
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Children 7 to 17 years old (inclusive)
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Parents of large families raising underage children
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Residents registered in the Republic of Karelia
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Pensioners
Free Admission
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Children up to 6 years old (inclusive)
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Residents registered in the Prionezhsky District
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Orphans and their accompanying person
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Children with disabilities and their accompanying person
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People with disabilities (Group 1 and their companion; Group 2)
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Veterans of WWII and combat veterans
How to get to park Sampo?
Reaching Mount Sampo is easy, whether by car or public transport.
By Car
From Petrozavodsk, take Shuyskoye Highway (Шуйское шоссе) to the Kola (Кола) R-21 highway. Drive to the 444th kilometer, then turn right onto 86K-18 and follow the signs for Sampo.
By Public Transport
Take buses 128 or 138 from Petrozavodsk towards Konchozero. Get off at the Sampo tourist base, then walk back about 700 meters before turning left towards the mountain.
For a hassle-free trip, guided tour buses also run regularly from Petrozavodsk to the park.
Travel Time: About 40 minutes from Petrozavodsk.
And just like that, our last day in Karelia came to an end. But there’s still so much left to explore! I’m already thinking about my next trip—maybe in summer, when the landscapes trade their snowy charm for lush greenery and endless northern light. One thing’s for sure: Karelia has a way of calling you back.
