Do you remember how bravely I jumped at the chance to join a marine expedition along Kamchatka’s rugged coast?
My dream was to spend weeks at sea, watching humpback whales, orcas, and seals in their natural habitat. Romantic, right? As much as I adore humpbacks, fate (and my fascination with volcanoes) had other plans. Thankfully, I scaled down my sea-bound ambitions to just one day—and wow, am I glad I did.
Let me tell you, the Pacific Ocean is no gentle giant. I’ve always been fine on boats — in fact, back in my U.S. days, I went whale watching almost every week without so much as a wobble. But Kamchatka? Different ballgame. Mark my words: if you’re planning a marine adventure here, take the seasick pills. Trust me, you’ll thank me later. Out of the 12 of us on the boat, only two looked as fresh as cucumbers: the captain and the cook. Why? Because they’re seasoned pros who probably have seawater running through their veins.
Lesson learned: the ocean may be wild and unpredictable, but it’s also awe-inspiring. Just be prepared for the ride!
General Information
Kamchatka, a stunning peninsula surrounded almost entirely by water, lies nestled in the mighty Pacific Ocean. To the west, it meets the Sea of Okhotsk, while to the east, the Bering Sea laps at its shores. This unique geography is dotted with picturesque bays, many of which are ideal for navigation and offer breathtaking views.
One of the most renowned spots on Kamchatka’s eastern coast is Avacha Bay, a favorite among travelers. This area boasts a collection of fascinating islands and bays teeming with wildlife. From seabirds soaring overhead to seals basking along the shorelines, the biodiversity here is incredible. And for those hoping for a more extraordinary encounter, the largest ocean dwellers—majestic whales and orcas—frequently visit these waters, offering unforgettable moments for lucky visitors.
The boat trip to Russkaya Bay is not for the faint of heart — it’s a full 10-hour adventure on the shaky, shaky Pacific, so plan accordingly! Our journey began bright and early, setting sail on a yacht from the Avachinsky pier, aiming to maximize our chances of spotting marine life.
Our first stop? The iconic Three Brothers rocks, one of Kamchatka’s most famous landmarks. These towering stone pillars rise dramatically from the water, standing like ancient guardians at the bay’s entrance. While they’re visible from the shore, seeing them up close from the boat is an entirely different experience. The sheer scale and rugged beauty are awe-inspiring.
The Three Brothers are more than just a geological wonder—they hold a deep cultural significance for the indigenous people of peninsula, inspiring countless legends over the years. As we sailed past, it was easy to see why this place has captured imaginations for centuries.
Three Brothers Rocks
Getting close to the Three Brothers rocks is no easy feat. Strong currents swirl around these towering pillars, causing boats to sway noticeably, adding an extra thrill to the journey. Beneath the waves, scientists have discovered a small cave at a depth of 13 meters, and the underwater world surrounding the rocks is teeming with life. Crabs, sea urchins, sponges, and sea anemones create a vibrant marine biosystem, making the area a popular spot for fishing among locals and visitors alike.
In 1983, the Three Brothers were officially recognized as a regional natural monument and added to Kamchatka’s list of specially protected areas. But their significance dates much further back. The first Russian explorers mapped these rocks in 1737, and they were frequently mentioned in sailors’ accounts.
Charles Clark, a member of James Cook’s famed expedition, even noted their striking appearance, describing them as "remarkable in shape."
Standing in their shadow, it’s easy to see why these impressive formations have fascinated sailors, scientists, and storytellers for centuries. They’re more than just rocks—they’re a symbol of Kamchatka’s wild beauty and a testament to nature’s artistry.
Itelmen Legend
The Three Brothers rocks aren’t just a geological marvel — they come with a story as timeless as the tides. According to an ancient Itelmen legend, these stones were once three heroic brothers. Long ago, the coast was relentlessly battered by storms, as the mischievous sea deity unleashed waves to destroy human settlements for his own amusement. No plea or offering could appease the spirits of the sea.
Determined to protect their people, the three brothers took a stand. Strong and brave, they ventured into the bay and positioned themselves side by side, shielding the shore with their mighty chests. The sea deity, angered by their defiance, lashed out with powerful waves. But the brothers held their ground, unyielding. Realizing he couldn’t overpower them, the sea god cast a spell, turning the brothers into stone.
Petrified yet steadfast, they continue to guard the bay and its shores, standing tall as protectors to this day. This legend adds a mystical charm to the Three Brothers, making them more than just a natural monument—they’re a symbol of courage and sacrifice.
Starichkov Island
Next, we head out to a true birdwatcher's paradise: Starichkov Island. Unfortunately we couldn't see much due to the weather condition but hopefully you get more luck in it!
Nestled in the open ocean, this tiny 500-square-meter island is home to thousands of seabirds, creating their own bustling colony right in the heart of their food-rich environment. The island’s cliffs and rocky shores are alive with a fascinating array of bird species—guillemots, kittiwakes, cormorants, puffins, and, of course, the island's namesake, the starik bird (a type of auk), who nests in holes dug into the ground.
But the island’s avian wonders don’t stop there. On the towering coastal cliffs, you’ll spot the nests of one of the largest and most majestic birds of prey: the Steller’s sea eagle, an inspiring sight for any bird enthusiast.
The island’s rocky reefs and vertical formations, like the Kekurs, Karaulny, and Sentinel, add even more drama to the landscape. These are often the perfect lounging spots for seals, who bask in the sun and seem unbothered by our presence. While seals are typically shy creatures, on Starichkov Island, they’re surprisingly comfortable, allowing visitors to get close for some incredible photos.
However, due to its status as a nature reserve and monument, landing on the island is strictly restricted to scientific personnel. So, while we could marvel at the wildlife and take in the breathtaking scenery from the boat, this protected haven remains untouched by human hands—keeping its delicate ecosystem safe for generations to come.
Russkaya Bay
And then came what was probably the most exciting part!
Let’s not forget, I spent most of my time inside the boat, wearing a hat pulled low over my eyes to avoid seeing any movement. I was half-dead, just like the rest of the group. We only ventured out onto the deck when the captain shouted that we were approaching something truly interesting.
Our next location was Russkaya Bay, located to the southwest of Avacha Bay. Until the mid-20th century, it was known by its Itelmen name, Akhomten. In ancient times, the southeastern coast of Kamchatka was populated by the Itelmen tribes. To this day, archaeologists still find remnants of their dwellings, campfires, and various tools—knives, arrowheads, scrapers, and more.
The history of Russkaya Bay itself is also rich. During World War II, it served as a ship accumulation point. Avacha Bay was mined at the time, and this is where ships were guided to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky using a pilot vessel. The bay is quite deep and offers excellent protection from any storm, making it accessible even to very large ships. Fun fact: the area housed a border outpost for a long time, which was only disbanded in 2011.
Without a doubt, this is one of the most colorful and picturesque places in Kamchatka.
At Cape Kekurny, at the entrance to the bay, we encountered a few Steller sea lions. This is their territory and haul-out site. These massive creatures, reaching up to a ton, are fiercely protective of their harem and occasionally get into fights with each other. Imagine, if a male loses a fight, the group kicks him out, and he’s forced to venture off on his own… My heart nearly shattered hearing this! Nature is so raw and beautiful, yet it can break your heart too. Meanwhile, little pups scurry around, already weighing 15-20 kg at birth.
In the waters of Russkaya Bay, we spotted some of the ocean’s largest inhabitants — whales and orcas. The captain mentioned that it’s rare to see both humpbacks and orcas together, as typically only one or the other shows up. We were truly lucky! Our main goal was to see humpbacks, but I had never seen orcas before, and I couldn’t let this chance slip away! Their triangular dorsal fins and distinctive white patches are visible from a distance. These giants migrate to local waters during the summer in search of fish, while some orcas stay year-round and are known as “locals.”
Fishing and Sea Food Lunch
No boat day in Kamchatka would be complete without fishing — people travel from all over the world just for this experience. As for me, I can’t say much about the fishing itself, except that the freshly caught and cooked crabs were absolutely divine. Fishing doesn’t spark much joy for me, but then again, the relentless dizziness wasn’t helping my enthusiasm.
Honestly, my only thought was, someone please bring me some crabs and let me recover in a dark room. Survival mode had fully kicked in by this point.
