Today, we set off for Tolmachev Dol.
On the second day of our adventure, Kamchatka continued to surprise and delight me with its diverse beauty! There were so many incredible sights that I could hardly keep up.
We’ve already seen so many volcanoes, and I still couldn’t tell them apart. I wondered if I’d manage to remember even the most important ones (there are 300 in Kamchatka, in case you were wondering).
Now, back to the main event: the journey takes us through Tolmachev Dol (Plateau), a vast volcanic upland that astounds with its beauty, diversity, and unique wildlife. The plant life of the dol is typical of the southern part of the peninsula, featuring park-like birch forests, thickets of alder and cedar, berry fields, lichen-covered areas, and rhododendron bushes.
Lakes area is famous for its bears, who often wander in to snack on the berries in the tundra. The best time to spot these furry berry enthusiasts is in August and September when the fruit is ripe. Although our chances of seeing them were pretty slim, I held on to hope until the very end!
But it’s not just the berry-laden tundras and bears that make Tolmachev Dol special. The journey to the Lake was an adventure in itself, with mesmerizing scenery every step of the way. We made several stops to explore alpine meadows and the stone birch forest, including its “queen” — a magnificent 300-year-old birch tree. We also visited an ancient crater that houses a perfectly round lake, aptly named the "Bear's Bowl."
Opala Volcano
Our first pit stop was right on the road with a view of the active Opala Volcano, considered a sacred mountain by the Itelmen, one of Kamchatka's indigenous people.
Opala has had eruptions with ash plumes and intense gas emissions in 1797, 1828, 1854, and 1894. By 1854, there were reports of gas emissions from Skalistaya. These activities qualify Opala as one of the active volcanoes.
The name “Opala” is an adaptation of the Itelmen word “Apach.” The Cossacks used this name to refer to the Itelmen leader, which translates to “Father.”
The northern part of the caldera features a modern cone with a height of 2,475 meters. Opala is a typical stratovolcano with a well-defined conical shape, and its base has an 11-kilometer diameter.
400-year-old stone birch tree
The next pit stop on the way was near to a 400-year-old stone birch tree. It is one of the oldest trees in the region.
Just think about that number for a moment! 400 years! That’s since the 1600s! While the world has seen countless events since then, this birch tree has been peacefully growing in Kamchatka, spreading its roots far and wide. It's fascinating!
The stone birch, also known as Erman's birch, is a unique tree widely spread across the region. It forms park-like forests along mountain slopes and river valleys, often without any other tree species. This birch marks the upper boundary of forests and, near the sea, takes on wind-shaped forms. The stone birch can thrive in rocky areas where other trees can’t grow due to the lack of soil—hence its name, “stone” birch.
It’s the ultimate survivor, making its home in places other trees wouldn't dare.
Tolmachev Lake
And so, after bouncing over bumps and through the rugged terrain, but with wonderful company and breathtaking views, we finally reached our first major stop—Tolmachev Lake! I can't stop marveling at the incredible nature here! It lies in the center of the dol. Picturesque high-altitude Lake Tolmachev, at an elevation of 616 meters above sea level.
Despite the possibility of bears, the lake was quite popular with locals, who had set up tents for a picnic. While I was busy flying a drone, captivated by the stunning views in front of me; our guide Oksana had already set up a mini-camp behind me with lunch ready to go.
Oh, those divine rolls with salmon and the creamiest cheese, paired with hot raspberry or rosehip tea! Imagine if the chef at the base camp is a culinary god, then having this meal in the great outdoors is nothing short of divine!
What is this lake anyways?
Tolmachev Lake was formed by the collapse of mountain rock in the Tolmachev River valley. The lake is home to a single fish species—kokanee (a landlocked form of sockeye salmon). Once upon a time, sockeye salmon entered the lake to spawn, did their nuptial duties, and their offspring hatched. However, due to the aftermath of the collapse, the young couldn't leave the lake, resulting in a new species of freshwater fish. It's like nature's version of "you snooze, you lose"—only with fish!
Bear's Bowl
A few kilometers from Lake Tolmachev lie two craters formed by explosive eruptions of volcanic gases accumulated beneath the Earth's surface. Geologists refer to these craters as maars. In one of these maars, a truly otherworldly lake, known as "Bear's Bowl," has formed. This eruption created a uniquely shaped lake with a diameter of 800 meters and a depth of 250 meters approximately 4,609 years ago.
And so ends our second day in Kamchatka. I'm still completely in love with this place and have an incredible desire to see everything it has to offer!
